This is a watch that's all about the movement, so I'm glad they have a full-width view back. Note the swan's neck fine regulator and lack of wire springs: this is emphatically not a cheap movement in design or execution. Ditto the column wheel - the more expensive solution for chronograph coordination, it's quite difficult to manufacture.
The Omega Megaquartz is offered in Fellows’ 21st January Vintage & Modern Wristwatches auction as Lot 120, estimate £300 - £400
Speaking of the bracelet, this pic shows the deployment/clasp feature. I feel that this deployment may be a weak-link in an otherwise very hefty and secure package. The single bar fold-up joint may be a source for problems. But when its 'locked-up' for wear this may be a unnecessary concern. Time will tell.
With 2012 behind us we are trying to find stuff from last year that we forgot to cover. Not because it wasn't cool, but you know, because we get busy. I was sad to find that I neglected to cover the Pilot Doublematic watch from Zenith - I even had some hands-on time with it. Zenith is partially to blame because until recently their communication with us "online journalists" was sort of sparse. They recently wised up so we hope to cover them with more frequency because I for one am a fan of what they are doing. I recently sat down with their CEO Mr. Dufour in Geneva and we chatted a bit about what's going to be soon released.
I was unable to find case measurements, though judging by the placement of the subdials, I'd estimate the case to be at least 45mm across, perhaps as much as 50mm. Big and bold.
The movement, which can be viewed via the expansive display case back, is beautifully finished and offers another example of the level of attention paid to every detail by Arnold & Son. The hand-wound A&S 8200 is both designed and manufactured in-house by Arnold and Son and offers 80+ hours of power reserve. Based on nickel silver, the A&S 8200 is finished with blued screws and Cotes de Geneve. Not a massively complex view, but one that has been given all the detail and attention one would expect from a watch such as the UTTE.
I realized that more and more fashion brands are "poaching" in the haute horlogerie district - like Louis Vuitton, Chanel, but also Ralph Lauren, Gucci, or Hilfiger. What is your opinion on that matter? Are these fashion-watches worth anything (a few of them cost like a years income) from the watch-aficionados point of view? And: do fashion brands actually need watches in their portfolio?
I for one have placed this watch on my “to buy” list, and hopefully will be able to enjoy it again very soon.
Designed by lead Roger Dubuis movement designer Gregory Bruttin, the caliber RD101 movement in the Quatuor is unlike most things you've seen before - even though it just shows the time. It almost feels like something in the Opus collection. The movement is comprised of almost 600 parts, and is deeply dark and rich in polished and other artistic techniques. It looks quite cool, but is unfortunately very difficult to photograph properly.
The second most noteworthy element of the Christoph Colomb is the rather noticeable sapphire crystal bubble that protrudes on both the top and bottom of the case. This of course exists to allow for the escapement assembly to have space in which to move around. The number one question I get about this is whether or not it is comfortable to wear. I was extremely dubious myself at first, but after wearing a few iterations of the watch I can honestly say that you don't feel it. That is the bottom part of the bubble on the rear of the watch. The top bubble is... well a large bubble. It allows for a fascinating view into a fascinating movement and is simply something to be aware of and avoid knocking into things.
One of the more surprising things that's been said is with the old rule of 50%, the fact is that a watch that is Swiss Made can also, by extension, mean that the same watch can be labelled "Asian Made". This alone can dilute the value of "Swiss Made", and thus the new 60% rule attempts to address this criticism by defining a larger percentage of the watch's value.
Instead, Gc has outfitted the Sport Class XXL collection with a range of steel and ceramic models, or all ceramic models. We believe that only some of them are officially sold in the United States, so depending on where you are you can check to see what your country carries. For a long time now we've admired Gc's application of ceramic to its timepieces at affordable prices. In the Sport Class XXL collection you can find all-white ceramic, white ceramic and steel, ceramic and steel, all-black ceramic (matte or polished) and black ceramic and steel watches. The variety is impressive, as well as the various dial versions.
What do they call it? Francophiles will love the "Gouverneur" name which is merely "Governor" in French. I wonder if there is a French equivalent of the English "eh governeh?" Though for us English speakers, spelling "Gou-ver-neur" is a bit of a drag. That won't stop me from liking the watch though... right goveneh'? The major design idea in the watch is the use of multiple ellipses. The vertically aligned ellipses of the dial window are opposite to the horizontally aligned ellipses on the face. The case makes a few uses of ellipses as well. It is like a melting pot of imperfect circles, strangely satisfying as though it was a touch of successful abstract art in the middle of a black tie affair.
CASE, DIAL & HANDS
Material: Titanium case, 18-carat rose gold bezel, lugs, pushers and crown or stainless steel case
Diameter: 48 mm
Diameter opening: 40 mm
Thickness: 15.80 mm
Crystal: Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Zenith Flying Instruments logo
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
Dial: Matt black
Hour-markers: SuperLuminova SLN C1
Hands: Gold-plated rhodium, satin-brushed or black ruthenium
This watch is still a concept, but it is a working one that could probably go into production soon (just don't expect it to come cheap). The unique thing about the MikroPendulumS is that it does away with hairsprings and instead uses magnetic pendulums to drive the watch's twin tourbillons. The movement is stunning to behold and it looks like an invisible force is powering the tourbillons.
Finally, the PAM 321 has a 72 hour power reserve with an indicator at 4 o'clock that uses a typical Panerai lumed hand (similar to the seconds hand) moving across a marked semicircle indicating zero to 72 hours. The indicator interferes slightly with the GMT hand when the lumed arrow head travels across it, however, that is a small price to pay to quickly know that you should wear or wind the watch. I also found the power reserve indicator to be accurate, showing exactly 36 hours remaining when I fully charged the watch and left it on my Wolf Designs watch winder with a 36 hours start delay.
While the price of this watch is undoubtedly high, it could be higher given what Glashutte Original or any other brand would want to profit from the development of such a timepiece. This is after all the most complicated watch ever produced by the German brand as far as we know of. In a nutshell, the Grande Cosmopolite is a tourbillon-based world timer with a perpetual calendar that is able to track 37 versus "just" 24 time zones. Of course it also has Glashutte Original's Panorama Date (which is their name for a big date window).
One person on team aBlogtoWatch says: I think the reasons may be two-fold. One practical and one aesthetic. The main reason I can think of would be size. We know there are alternative regulating organs for timepieces, like large clock pendulums for example, but there is nothing that is comparably accurate within the space constraints of a wrist watch.
How does one begin to become a watchmaker? Well, apparently, it begins with really menial and mind-numbing tasks such as learning how to look through the loupe with both eyes open and learning to pick up tiny parts with tweezers without dropping and losing them. An interesting read or maybe a warning call for those who aspire to be a watchmaker.
I arrived at the tiny wind-swept airport in the Isle of Man in a 78-seater Bombardier, the type of plane with propellers, in a place served mostly by small planes and by a three to four hour ferry ride from the UK mainland. Waiting at the airport to greet me was Roger Smith who I instantly recognized from the documentary, “The Watchmaker’s Apprentice”, which was first screened at the Salon QP in London in 2012.