AZ Fine Time
7830 E. Gelding Dr. Suite 100
Scottsdale, AZ 85260
In person, the Raven 44mm Deep is obviously Rolex-inspired but has been done so to make the best watch possible and not solely to piggyback on the legendary Submariner design. It is large, and on the included bracelet, quite heavy, weighing 249g before removing any of the links. The 44mm case has a very noticeable visual presence being 54mm from lug to lug and 17.6mm thick (including the domed crystal). The case offers 22mm lugs and the bracelet tapers down to 20mm at the clasp which is of a fold-over variety with a 20mm wetsuit extension and four micro adjustments. The nicely finished steel bracelet features solid end links and screwed link construction making for a very solid and reassuring feel. The Raven 44mm Deep comes in a roll case with a spare black leather strap, providing a nice change of pace from the bracelet. Regardless of strap or bracelet, the Raven 44mm Deep has been designed for those that prefer a large and heavy watch with a very solid and masculine presence.
This is wonderfully mad way to build a watch movement and shows the lengths to which watch brands would go to embrace new technology. An illustration of how the movement works is shown in the clip below.
In today's world of horology, when there are simultaneous races being fought for the fastest, the largest, the most complicated of watches it can truly be a good idea for a manufacture to relax and quietly create something ultra-fine, ultra-hard to beat: something ultra-thin. Less is often more, and this paradox could very well be that extra bit of help putting Arnold & Son on the wish-list of more collectors and watch lovers alike. arnoldandson.com
Arnold & Son has announced two new models into their Instrument range of Swiss high-end mechanical watches. The new models, called the DBS and DBG, offer dual time displays integrated into a single movement with each display being managed by a distinct barrel, gear train, escapement and balance. These new models are physically very similar and feature the same 44mm case, anti reflective sapphire crystal, sapphire display back and both are water resistant to 30m. Speaking to their complications, they are similar but have been designed to suit different purposes. With that in mind, let's take a look at the DBS.
deLaCour Red Dots
In truth the RM036 is a beauty on the wrist. I've never been a closeted fan of Mr. Mille's spirited contraptions that are a result of an "I wonder if I can produce this mentality." Richard Mille attempted to prove in the past that his tourbillon watches could withstand the types of forces that would destroy most tourbillon-based movements. How did he do that? By placing such watches on the wrists of race car drivers, tennis players, runners, and golfers. All to be worn in the heat of competition. So these athletes did, and the watch purportedly survived - but perhaps that wasn't enough for Richard Mille to get his point across. In development for a few years, Richard Mille has just released a watch with a mechanical g-force meter. Cool. but what will I do with it? Well what I did do with it is test the g-force meter.
Ulysse Nardin has recently produced a beautiful corporate movie displaying the people and methods behind the production of watches at their facilities in Switzerland. We've broken down those movies into several parts which will be posted weekly for you to watch. Please enjoy part 5 of the series on how Ulysse Nardin makes watches.
Oris Aquis Depth Gauge Ref. No. 733 7675 4154 Set, Ø 46.00mm
Brand Christopher Ward
Price2,450UKP, 2,041UKP non-EU
Would reviewer wear it On special occasions, but not daily.
Friend we'd recommend it to first Anyone who can appreciate a mono pusher for less than the price of a car.
Worst characteristic Case thickness
Best characteristic Affordability for a high-end complication.
Tudor makes the Heritage Chrono water resistant to 150 meters and it has a sapphire crustal. The pushers and crown are all screw-down. Tudor lays on SuperLumiNova on the hands and hour markers thickly, but is able to retain that iconic 1970s look of the chronograph in this updated modern version of the classic. I personally like this color scheme more than the gray and orange, finding it to be more friendly and bright for the sporty endeavors Tudor has in mind. Tudor will ship each Heritage Chrono Blue with a steel bracelet as well as this three-color blue, orange, and white NATO-style strap. Price will be about 4,200 Swiss Francs. tudorwatch.com
VINTAGE (CURVEX) 7-DAYS POWER RESERVE
Caliber: FM 1700
Movement: Mechanical with manual-winding, Two barrels, in-house
manufactured Breguet hairspring, high performance FM
escapement and balance screw
Dimensions of Movement: Ø 31.00 mm and height: 5.00 mm
Power Reserve: 7 days
Frequency: 18’000 vibrations / hour
Number of Components: 213
Number of Jewels: 27
Movement decoration: Côtes de Genève, circular graining, hand bevelling
Display: Hours and minutes, Seconds at 6 hours, Power reserve
Inside you'll find the watch and an additional rubber strap with machined buckle.
The overall package is topped off with a rugged-looking and highly durable black Cordura strap complete with a ceramic buckle as per the overarching theme of the watch. Quite frankly, as a fan of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches, I personally think that this is one stunning watch, and with the high-tech ceramics thrown into the mix, the space walking credentials for the modern era look to be secure. It sure would be nice to see this version on a real NASA astronaut.
Speaking of the 7067BR, (does that bloody "BR" really need to be there?), it's a dual time zone Tradition model with a beautiful design. The case is all Breguet with its fluted side and customary looking lugs. The case is 40mm wide and available in 18k white or rose gold. Inside the watch is the Breguet caliber 507 DRF manually wound movement. I love the frosted anthracite gray surfaces. The movement has two times, a day/night indicator for the reference time, and a power reserve indicator. It has 50 hours of power reserve and silicon balance spring. Of course it is nice to have the escapement on the dial so that your eyes are treated with regular movement.
A few hallmarks of the brand are particularly interesting and they include use of modern materials such as sapphire bridges and silicon parts, beautiful hand-engraved elements such as the automatic rotors, and attractive yet contemporary designs. DeMonaco watches feel like a satisfying combination of both traditional watch making values but modern luxury sensibility. These watches aren't for everyone with their high-end positioning and exclusive production, but they should be on your horological radar.
Kristin Kramer: No limit: Grieb & Benzinger Black Tulip or Pearl Blossom Ariel wrote about them here ».