At the very top of the dial on the Tourbillon Quantieme Perpetual you will see windows for the day and month and, sandwiched between them is a leap year indicator. Antoine Martin uses a retrograde hand for the date. The main hand on the dial is used to display the minutes, while a subsidiary dial at about 9 o'clock is used for the hours. The spinning tourbillon doubles as the seconds indicator. The design of the watch has the sapphire crystal really close to the tourbillon offering a really nice view of the complication in action. While the design of this watch may be beguiling, it is true haute horlogerie and a really interesting timepiece overall. A nice step forward for the new brand with their first tourbillon.
These go along with the three case materials, which are 18k rose gold, platinum (with the black dial), and steel (with the silver dial). For some reason, Dent calls two of the watches the Dent Ministry Chronograph, but the steel version is the Dent Ministry Evolution. Not sure why that is as the pieces are the same save for the case material. Inside the watches is a modified Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph than Dent refers to as their caliber 301.
It's a unique design, and the vintage-lume color works very well.
As the official watch maker partner, Hublot and Ferrari will enjoy a long and interesting relationship together. Still, this is likely to be one of the most important watches of the relationship. Hublot chose an opportune time to release a watch that even without the Ferrari branding would be important for the brand and the legacy of Mr. Biver. In about 2004 Hublot was officially "relaunched" with the debut of the original Big Bang. Little did they know how ironic the name would be given that the collection really birthed the success of today's Hublot.
Hands Ceramic version: Satin-finished and ruthenium coated with white SuperLuminova™
Gold version: Satin-finished gold plated hands with white SuperLuminova™
Movement: HUB4245 skeleton chronograph with central 45’ counter. Mechanical self-winding. Oscillating weight Black galvanic coating, with tungsten carbide heavy metal segment. Components 249. Jewels 28. Frequency 4 Hz (28,600 Vib/h)
Power reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Adjustable black rubber strap with white stripe
Clasp Deployant: buckle clasp in micro-blasted black PVD titanium and micro-blasted black ceramic or 18K King Gold
Together Max Busser and Stepan Sarpaneva selected the HM3 Frog to serve as the base of the new limited edition watch. You can see one of my several hands-on articles with an HM3 Frog watch here. The Frog was a revised version of the original HM3 with more "eye-like" hour and minute indicators. One notable difference for the "eyes" is the inclusion of an iconic Sarpaneva shape taken from his watch cases. You can see the gear-like shape in the center of the "eye domes".
The Opus 2 - Featuring a 38mm platinum case and a total of two possible versions, the Opus 2 is the result of a collaboration with watchmaker Antoine Preziuso. The Opus 2 was limited to 11 units spanning two different movement options which additionally each had a special single unit adorned with diamonds for a total existence of just 24 hand-made pieces. Seen as both a tourbillon with retrograde calendar or as a fully exposed tourbillon, this auction was for a diamond clad version of the latter and saw estimates of 0,000 - 5,000. This extremely limited piece found a new home with a hammer price of 1,318 USD (lot 4581).
Safes have been around for a long time. The iconic image of hidden wealth stored for later pleasure is the treasure chest. It was a lock box that those with means carried around with them to store their most valuable possessions. This turned into the more permanent "vault," which later became popularized by bank safes and vaults. A few decades ago, the safe became mainstream as fire safes entered the market for mass consumption. These safes have the primary goal of protecting the contents from fire, but not per se, theft. Eventually, safe makers loosened their own definitions of safety and started blurring the meaning of security and fire safety into one product. Videos on YouTube for example depict how most consumer safes can be pried open in under two minutes with a crowbar and minimal other tools by even a child. The safe isn't as secure as we once thought them to be. That is unless you buy the right safe.
Third generation Central Watch owner Steve Kivel never intended on perpetuating the family business. His grandfather Max opened the show in 1952, and his father Larry later handed the operation over to Steve - who was always intent on doing something else with his life. Perhaps it was that watch making was in his DNA that kept him at Central Watch. His father Larry is still at the shop working on watches regularly.
Watch What-Iffed: Piaget Altiplano 43 Automatic
Other new Sporting pieces include some new versions of the Sporting Chronograph Ceramic. These are hard to not like given their colorful rubber coated center links that come in either red or yellow. Ralph Lauren calls these "racing stripes" which ironically enough are not on their Sporting Automotive watch. Also about 45mm wide these matte black ceramic watches are pretty cool looking with their striped bracelets. It it also a way of RL making the pieces a bit more fun and light-hearted. What do you think about the fact that the bracelet has the dash of color but the dial is monochromatic?
On the rear of the watch is more classic finishing and another view of the manually-wound movement. The caseback is not super exciting, but nonetheless nice. What you can't see is just how complex the movement it. In it are over 600 parts and it has two mainspring barrels. One of them is purely dedicated to the "animation" of the hands as they move around when the time changes. Power reserve is about 45 hours.
The feel is very dressy. Gorgeous mirror finishing, alternating with brushed on the links, and the same stepped bezel as my 151P:
Along with its timezone flexibility, the Bremont ALT1-WT is also an automatic chronograph with a traditional two-pusher layout and sub dials for 30 minutes (top), running seconds (left, 9 o'clock) and 12 hours (bottom). I really love this layout as it groups the Bremont nameplate and date in a way that seems balanced with the otherwise asymmetrical sub dial design. The date window retains the trapezoidal shape which was first seen on the C-17 model in reference to the shape of a C-17's aircraft heads up display.